5 Printable Bambu Lab Mods: 270° Door Hinge and More
Five printable mods that make Bambu Lab P and X series printers nicer to live with: a side spool holder, a tidy poop chute with a drawer, a door hinge that opens to 270°, the Scrubbler nozzle wiper, and covers for the gaps parts love to fall into. Here's how I printed and installed each one, and what went wrong along the way.
The quick version
- Side spool holder: moves the spool off the back. Needs bearings, M3×20 mm screws, PC4 connectors and Bowden tube.
- Poop chute with drawer: a pull-out tray with a lid, held on with magnets and super glue. Baking paper stops waste getting stuck.
- 270° door hinge: print it in ABS, test-fit everything first, and print the screws on their side. You'll want a washer kit, a hobby knife and a screwdriver set.
- Scrubbler: a much better nozzle wipe, especially for PETG.
- One Plate to Cover Them All: covers that stop dust and small parts falling into the machine.
1. Side spool holder
Having the spool at the back is annoying, so I moved it to the side with this design. You'll need bearings (or print the print-in-place bearings, which I did in PETG at 0.2 mm), M3×20 mm screws, a printed PTFE coupler with PC4 connectors, and some Bowden tube. It needs no supports. Print it slowly because the upper overhangs get stressed. I used PETG, but PLA works too.
- Remove the spool and stock holder, then the four screws.
- Fit the holder with the M3×20 mm screws, using a larger screwdriver for enough torque.
- Extend the Bowden tube with the coupler and PC4 connectors. Old M10 PC4s from an Ender worked; PC4-01s fit the coupler perfectly.
- Screw the thread adapter in slowly. I over-tightened mine, snapped the thread and had to reprint nearly everything.
- Add the rollers and bearings. Metal bearings spin more smoothly, but printed ones are fine at real spool speeds.

2. Poop chute with a pull-out drawer
My old chute was thin, jammed easily and I couldn't see when it was full. This design by CM 3D Shop has a sliding tray with a lid, so the waste stays hidden. The body needs no supports. The tray does, and the maker suggests PETG supports (which need an AMS), but a top Z distance of 0.275 made them pop off easily.
- Glue in 6×4 mm magnets. The body's polarity doesn't matter (they stick to the metal frame), but the drawer's does. Mark one side with a marker before gluing.
- If waste sticks in the top of the chute, line it with baking paper. Foil didn't help, but baking paper fixed it completely.

3. 270° door hinge
The stock door only opens to 90°. This hinge by Jackadels lets it swing all the way round. I printed it in ABS (no glue needed on the stock plate) and bought the screws cheaply from the MakerWorld page.
- Pre-assemble everything first. That's how I found the printed screws snapped. Printing them on their side with supports made them much stronger, even if the threads look a little rough.
- Remove the four door screws and rubber gaskets. If the glass is glued to the hinges, ease it free with a thin hobby knife. It took me about 20 minutes, so take your time. Clean off the adhesive with IPA.
- Fit the hinges with the M3×6 screws left a little loose. Don't over-tighten the M2.5 screws in the glass or it can crack.
- Hang the door, align it with the frame (it may take a few tries), then add the hinge stoppers so it can't fold in on itself.
Because the hinges are under load forever, I had a set made by PCBWay in glass-filled nylon (PA12-GF) on an SLS printer. They work the same as the ABS ones but are far more rigid and durable. I kept ABS for the inserts that need to flex and for the stoppers.



4. The Scrubbler
It combines the P series wiper with the A1's rubber wiper, which helps a lot with sticky PETG. After two months on both my machines there's no visible wear. Small bits occasionally fling off, but they land at the back, not on prints. Full details in my Scrubbler install guide. There's also a version for other Bambu machines.

5. One Plate to Cover Them All
A set of covers that stop dust and plastic getting into moving parts, and stop small parts disappearing into holes. Print them in ABS. They lie flat and mostly just pop on. I skipped the lead screw base covers because they sat too close to the screws.
Parts I used
- PCBWay: custom SLS nylon parts ($5 credit with this link)
Questions? Ask in the video comments, or join the community.
More guides
Scrubbler Nozzle Wiper for Bambu Lab P1S: Install Guide and Fix
Bambu Lab Prints Not Sticking? How to Fix Bed Adhesion
How to Tell If Filament Is Wet, and the Best Ways to Dry It
Common questions
What material should I print the 270 degree door hinge in?
I printed it in ABS. Pre-assemble it first: the printed screws snapped for me, and printing them on their side with supports made them much stronger.
How do I stop waste getting stuck in a Bambu poop chute?
Line the top of the chute with baking paper. Foil made little difference, but baking paper stopped it sticking completely.
Do I need to buy bearings for the side spool holder?
No. Print-in-place bearings work, though metal bearings spin more smoothly.

About the author: Martin Kidd
I'm the one-man team behind LayerLab. I design, print, test and ship original 3D-printed products from home in Australia, like my Blind Stopper, and share what I learn on YouTube.
Some links on this page are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This video was sponsored by PCBWay.
Bambu Lab P1S
Bearings
Bowden tube
PC4 connectors
6x4 mm magnets
Super glue
Washer kit
Hobby knife
Screwdriver set